The Big Day.

Julia looking radiant on her special day.

Extras for Julia's big day.

Something blue.

Something old (fabric).

Something borrowed (made specially for this occassion).

 

A gift for Julia's mother made from the reminents of her wedding dress as a keepsake. 

I added the pearl buttons from the front of the lace overcoat to the handle.

Creation of the Shrug/Cape.

Having never made one of these before it was a case of try and see.  I first cut the pieces in two parts on the stand and then using thin pieces of lace from the original lace overcoat  I created a scollaped effect. 

 This is designed to sit inside the corset attached by loops so it could be removed for the evening do.

 Attached to the corset for a demure presentation at the church alter.

 Keyhole effect at the back.

Creation of the Corset.

Self explanitory - making the corset.

Cut the pattern on the stand which is set to Julia's (the Bride) measurements, translate to flat fabric. Cut three of each piece from medium to heavy weight calico, cut one of each piece from top layer fabric and lining and interfacing to stiffen the structure. 

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 Work out bone channels and stitch.  Mock up the corset with a large running stitch and intersert bones for first fit.  Mark any alterations, unpick and amend the pattern pieces. 

 Once the fit is correct make the bias binding for the piping.

Handtack the top fabric and lining to the pieces. Stitch all piping to seam edges.

Stitch pieces together, check fit and then attach piping to top edge. Insert bones.

 Stitch the piping edge down to finish off the top of corset.  Attach piping to the bottom edge and stitch down.

 

Fold back the centre back pieces add boning to bone channels at edges.  Stitch back and close piping. Insert eyelets for tight lacing and stitch around to secure. Some styles of  corsets can actually flattern you out a little so I tend to add a bit of ommmpppphhh to the inside.

Julia, being a thespian opted for a dramatic blood red ribbon to match her ruby red shoes, bouquet of roses and lippy.

Here I added cut out lace lilies to cover the pollin stains and age marks on the vintage lace fabric. Created a slightly 3-d effect.

Skirting Around.

So this is where I make the lower half of the orignal dress into a long, floor sweeping skirt with train.

Original zipper removed, lining tacked in and tacked along top edge with a running stitch.

 Darts to shape the waist. Levelling off the waist.

Reshaping the hemline as the original design wasn't symetrical.

Lace taken from train of the lace jacket, tacked to the back of the skirt train.  Adds interest to the back train of the skirt as she walks down the isle and gives her vows at the alter. 

New zipper tacked in and then stitched.  Handstitched to lining and stabstitching to hold the skirt fabric in place so it doesn't drop.

                                                  Waistband added and stitched in place.

 Lace overlay on train added.  Seperate lace flower pieces handstitched to cover up vintage pollin stains.

Glass buttons and loops add the finishing touch to the vintage inspired design.

First Cut is the Deepest!

Boy was I nervous. What a responsibility, cutting up the much loved wedding dress of a friends Mother. I had to treble check before I made the first cut that mum was sure she was okay with it. My hand literally shook when I made the first cut but luckily I didn't cut a wonky line.

Here I unpicked the zipper and marked out first where the new waist would be. Then I took my shiny, shiny shears to the fabric, layer by layer.  I intended on keeping as much of the original trimmings but as the zip was not put in straight to begin with I ended up taking it out altogether and replacing it.

The Design

 Sorry, not the best drawing but kind of gives you an idea of what we decided to do with this project.  Julia, the bride wanted a simple vintage inspired design, with a late 1930s - 1940's silhouette. We decided I would create a three piece consisting of a corset, detachable shrug and skirt. The skirt we would create by cutting the dress and dropping it down to the desired length.